2021 Northern Rhône

The young vines planted by Graeme and Julie in l’Aleau have produced a miraculous wine in 2021. It’s only released in tiny quantities, but is well worth tracking down. There’s a step up in concentration and tension on the straight Condrieu. And the story behind the wine is one of the most charming we know. When winemakers talk about tending their vineyards like their gardens, we understand what they mean, but take it with a pinch of salt. In this case, these vines literally are Graeme and Julie’s garden, which sits between Coteau de Chéry and Château Grillet, below their house in Vérin. They bought the house a few years ago, and on discovering their garden was in fact prime AOC Condrieu, they not only decided to plant it with vines, but also to start their own domaine. So it’s where their story really begins.

Each year we see the Botts refine their style, and this Condrieu is a contender for most exciting wine of their 2021 vintage. They like to keep freshness in their Condrieu, rather than seeking richness and weight. And so 2021 plays right into their hands: the style is exactly that which they pursue. It is poised and energetic, vibrant and lively, with beautiful aromatic appeal. The granitic soils of Condrieu give the wine minerality and freshness alongside natural ripeness. It should be superb after a year in bottle.

This fresh, bright, early-picked Viognier encapsulates Graeme & Julie’s skill at handling this grape. Where their Condrieus are emerging as some of the most interesting in the appellation, this ‘First Flight’ is a great value window onto their style. The vines are grown in granite soils at 300m altitude. This zips across the palate with the natural freshness of the 2021 vintage, with an attractive almond bite on the finish.